Bryan Holness jerks best pork in St Bess
Published:Saturday | August 20, 2011 | 12:00 AM
SHAWS, St Elizabeth:
THE national motto, 'Out of Many, One People', characterises the Jamaican culture in many ways. Our fusion in the performing and fine arts is well documented, but how often do we stop and examine it in the culinary arts. The Gleaner made a discovery in the breadbasket parish recently while in search of good jerked pork.
Some may ask why were we in search of jerked pork in St Bess when Portland is known for that delicacy. But, while visiting our favourite fish haunt, we were told about the holy grail of pork in Shaws, St Elizabeth, just off the popular Holland Bamboo road.
After hearing so much about the place, we arrived at our location. From outside the small bamboo hut, it seemed like a sure disappointment. However, the smell of jerked pork soon excited and instantly watered our palates; we had arrived.
"Welcome," said the stoutly built young man standing across the counter. "I am Bryan.What can I do for you today?" he asked.
"Well, we heard about the pork," we replied.
We identified ourselves to Holness and he beckoned to his cousin to take over in the kitchen. He was ready to tell the story of Ruby's Jerk Centre.
Family business
"My grandmother Ruby Malcolm started the business over 22 years ago. Eight years ago when she was ready to hang up the apron, I took over," related the 26-year-old Maggotty High past student.
After leaving high school, Holness enrolled in the HEART Trust/NTA programme and acquired qualifications in electrical installation. Although he enjoys working in that field, the constant call of the kitchen was too hard to ignore.
A break in our conversation was necessary when the first serving of pork arrived. An instant explosion of flavours excited not only our taste buds, but the entire body. A second bite definitely hit a sweet spot and, like a child with his favourite candy in hand, we knew we had found something special after many years of boasting about popular pork eateries across Jamaica. In five seconds, those theories had all been proven a farce as Ruby's jerked pork now stands tall above the rest. To top it off, the pork was served not with bread or festival, like at other places in Jamaica, but with a warm roti cut into squares. A second serving was definitely on the cards.
Asked what makes Rubys Jerk stand out, Holness replied: "Our special secret blend of herbs and natural spices. All our ingredients are from St Elizabeth, including onions, garlic, scallion, Scotch bonnet peppers." He also divulged for the first time the special process of carefully seasoning and marinating the pork before it hits the grill.
Though business is good, the recession of 2008 slowed commerce to some degree. However, it was not detrimental and, so far, business has been getting back to pre-2008 standards. This is still of little comfort to the industrious chef, who has set his sights on an expansion programme for the next five years and a mobile component to the business within the next 10 years. "Sometimes you have to make opportunities for yourself. You have to start from somewhere and I started here with my grandmother, so I know I can take the business to the next level," said Holness confidently.