Sweet Port Maria!

She smelled of sweet perfume. Very sweet perfume. I sneezed. "Nuh mind, it soon blow weh," she said, using her hand to fan away the scent.

Miss Lissette, a middle-aged church-going woman with plump cheeks and a chipped front tooth was standing in the heart of Port Maria, St Mary, as crowds of people walked by and agitated drivers of vehicles honked horns and shouted obscenities at each other. I had only moments before introduced myself to the woman.

Miss Lissette had that morning purchased a small bottle of perfume from a man riding a bicycle through the area. She immediately sprayed copious amounts of the substance all over herself. She was pleased with the results.

"Is di first mi see him, yuh know," she said, smiling.

"Him perfume dem simell nice. Mi never mek fi buy none today but when mi smell dem mi say no sah, mi haffi hold dis one," she said.

It was a sunny morning in the town, and the heat was getting to me. It was then that I really looked Miss Lissette over for the first time. In addition to a month's supply of perfume, she also had on a large, black hat, thick white stockings and a jacket seemingly made of wool. I asked her if she wasn't feeling toasty.

"No man! Yuh ah town man, yuh used to fan. We ah ol' country woman. We used to di hotness," she laughed.

Her eyes widened. "See mi drive deh!" she said pointing across the road. With that, the woman waved goodbye and jogged towards a waiting minivan. The scent of her perfume lingered long after she left.

I walked through the town for a while admiring the architecture of some of the old buildings, all the while trying to stay out of the way of fast walkers and wayward drivers.

Hat comment

Near a variety store, I met a man in a hat. A fine hat it was, with a plastic feather and red and green stripes. It did, however, seem out of place. He was wearing only a brown T-shirt and a pair of faded blue jeans. I commented on the hat. The man's face immediately lit up.

"Yuh love it?" he asked. I thought love was a strong word, but not wanting to leave him deflated, I nodded.

"Yes man. Di wife send it fi mi, yuh nuh? Send it from England," he said.

Someone from inside the store called out.

"Ah di hat him ah talk bout again?" the person asked. It was a man's voice.

"Den him nah stop talk bout di one fool fool hat? Mercy! From him get di likkle one hat him nuh stop wear it. Ah wah dis?" the person said. I couldn't see who was speaking because inside the store was very dark. I looked at the hat-wearer for a reaction.

He grimaced. "Nuh watch bad mind people. Fi dem fambily wouldn't even look pon dem and gi dem a paper clip so is grudge dem grudge mi fi mi tings," he said in a hushed tone.

I bid farewell to the man in the hat and walked through other parts of the town. The nearby sea, the old buildings and the crowds of people made for an active scene. It was like stepping into a painting. I saw a young boy drinking a bag juice next to a woman I assumed was his mother. I walked over to her and introduced myself.

"Yes," she said. "Mi see you walking around and looking. Mi seh to miself dat maybe you is a building inspector and maybe a tourist," she said. I wasn't sure how to take that so I smiled. I told her I was just seeing what things were like in the town.

"Oh, but maybe yuh could come back another day. When yuh come like now when it crowded, is pure taxi driver and bus man yuh see. Di real Port Maria people dem have more manners dan dat," said the woman. The boy tugged at her skirt.

I asked her if she was from the area. "Yes, man. Mi born and grow nearby. Mi love di sea breeze. Wouldn't run lef' it for nothing," she said.

Where should Robert go next? Let him know at robert.lalah@gleanerjm.com

The following is feedback to last week's Roving with Lalah

Lalah,
great job all the time. You keep reminding us of how laid back,
beautiful and funny Jamaicans are. We are such a unique bunch. Thanks to
you for reminding us.

- Audreybevas

This
article brings back memories of when I used to visit my grandmother who
lived in Seafield (a few miles from Guys Hill). Devil's Race Course is
not for the faint of heart, nor weak of stomach - all those twists and
turns. We would always breathe a sigh of relief once we finished
climbing the hills at Corner Rest.

- Lovejabad