Roving with Lalah - Hanging out in 'Shrimp Country'

Robert Lalah, Gleaner Reporter

I once met a woman who had an uncanny resemblance to shrimp. Now, this is hardly a nice thing to say about someone, but heaven knows it is the truth. And I wasn't the only one to think this.

Her nickname, given to her as a child by schoolmates, was the cleverly crafted 'Shrimpy'. An unfortunate nose she had, with eyes that seemed to have more black than is normal. But never mind that; she was a lovely lady with a smile that could brighten any room.

Now the reason I remember Shrimpy so well, is that, as the story goes, she was born in Middle Quarters, St Elizabeth, a place known as Shrimp Country. What are the odds?

Middle Quarters is known as the place to buy the spiciest, juiciest shrimp in all the land. There are usually lots of vendors out on the roadway and there are stalls aplenty where the treat is prepared throughout the day.

I was recently in Middle Quarters and sat for a while with a shrimp vendor, a woman called 'P' by her peers. Now P is wide in the waist and big on charm. She had called out to me after seeing me walking by.

"Oy deh, Missa Sar!" she bellowed. I walked over to her. "Have mi excuse but, yuh alright?" she asked, tilting her head to the right. I told her I was quite well and that I appreciated her concern.

"True mi see yuh walking bout di place and yuh nuh beknowing to mi, so mi meck sure ask," she said, smiling. She pointed to an upside-down bucket on the ground next to her. "Yuh can siddung, yuh know. We nuh charge fi seat," she laughed.

I took her up on her offer. We were right next to the main road in what I assumed was the community square. Some distance away there were some sheds and we could see white smoke billowing from inside.

"So what yuh is about now, please?" P asked me, smiling.

I told her that it had been some time since I was last in Middle Quarters, so I was just stopping by to see how things were going.

"Oh, we alright, man," she said.

I told her that when I was there last, I tried to find out the secret behind Middle Quarters' recipe for shrimp. People say the shrimp sold there taste better than those found anywhere else, and I wanted to know why.

P smiled and shook her head. She leaned back and patted her forehead, looking quite pleased with herself.

"Middle Quarters people born and grow into shrimp," she said. "It have nuff fi do wid how we season it, but is also about where di shrimp come from. Fi wi shrimp come from Black River and yuh can't find no better shrimp dan dat. Dem fat and sexy," she said, giggling.

P went on to tell me that St Elizabeth, known as the bread basket parish, is also home to the best peppers, onions and scallions, all of which are used in the preparation of the shrimp sold at Middle Quarters.

"Yuh see when yuh mix in di pepper and yuh cook dat down? Woi! Nutting nuh nice so! Yuh lick yuh finger dem," she said, gesticulating wildly.

I asked P if the vendors come out to the roadway to sell every day.

"Yeah man, every day," she said. "Some day more pack dan edda day. Yuh have some day dat slow up, but like on the weekend or public holiday, yuh don't have hand fi sell," she said.

"But meck mi nuh talk too much," P laughed. "Tell whosoever dat dem must come fi dem self come taste Middle Quarters shrimp. Dat is the only way fi dem really know bout it. Dem need fi just drive come St Bess and follow dem nose. When dem reach, wi set dem up proper proper," said P.

Where should Robert go next? Let him know at robert.lalah@gleanerjm.com

• Feedback

The following is feedback to last week's Roving with Lalah at Mandela Highway, St Catherine:

Robert, you really know how to paint a picture with your words. Kudos to you and The Gleaner for these stories.

-Boasty Boy

Funny story! Love the part with the igloo. Too funny! Typical Jamaicans. Can't wait for next Tuesday!

-JJ

I love Roving with Lalah. I look forward to it every week. Already thinking of next week.

-Tortuga

A fantastic read! Thanks, Mr Lalah. Your writing is very good.

-Blessed by Love