Berl Francis | South coast tourism holds its own

Traditionally, much of Jamaica’s tourism has been concentrated on the north coast, with the emphasis on sun, sand, and sea, but the island’s south coast is increasingly asserting itself as a very desirable alternative to the traditional tourism model. What this scenic part of Jamaica offers the visitor is a smorgasbord of choices because of its diversity.

The south coast is known for its rugged coastline, secluded beaches backed by hilly terrain, tidy villages, upscale residential areas, and elegant Georgian architecture. The parish boasts a host of attractions, from large and small hotels and guest houses, adventure tours, eco-tourism, mountain tours to active night-life, and the list goes on. The beaches on the south coast are often less crowded than their counterparts to the north, but they are equally picturesque, with their own character.

Many people embarking on a Jamaica south coast sightseeing tour include time in Mandeville. The town retains much of its English character as this was a favoured retreat for colonials escaping the heat of the plains. For activity, you could tour the High Mountain Coffee factory and learn how rum is made at the Appleton Estate rum distillery in Siloah, St Elizabeth. Producing sugar and rum since 1749, the plantation is a fascinating place to visit. After an introductory video, visitors can see the whole process in action, from the donkey-driven cane mill to the final product, a specially blended rum.

Travelling down the steep Spur Tree Hill offers a spectacular view of the parish of St Elizabeth and the Westmoreland plains. St Elizabeth, like much of Jamaica, has its own unique attractions. There is Accompong, for example – well worth a visit for its rugged beauty and fascinating history. It is named after its founder, Accompong, brother of Maroon leaders Quao, Cuffy, Cudjoe, and Nanny, warriors from the Ashanti area of West Africa. The town was founded in 1739 when land was given to the Maroons as part of a peace treaty with the British. A traditional ceremony is held here on January 6 annually, to commemorate the signing of the treaty.

St Elizabeth’s capital, Black River, is known for its Georgian architecture lining the High Street, a reminder of colonial days, as are the nineteenth-century sugar plantations in Savanna-la-Mar. For an interesting vantage view of this area, a guided motorboat tour of the Black River and its surroundings is well worth the ride. In areas not built up, wetlands still flourish, home to frogs, lizards, and crocodiles. Black River was a once thriving sugar port but lost its centrality following the demise of the slave trade in 1838. With funding from the National Heritage Trust, many of its eighteenth- and nineteenth-century buildings have been restored.

WATERFALL

YS Falls is one of Jamaica’s most beautiful waterfalls and natural swimming pools. It was originally a cane farm, with a working sugar factory. YS Estate also supplied logwood for export to Europe, where the heart of the logwood tree was used to make dye. However, with the introduction of synthetic dyes, the need for logwood was no longer necessary, and sugar production decreased over time. Today, local guides will take you sailing down the 30km stretch where the logs were transported and eventually shipped to Europe.

Lovers’ Leap is a cliff-top location famous for its stunning views and the legend of two enslaved lovers who are said to have leaped to their deaths rather than be separated. The cliff, 1,700 feet above the Caribbean Sea, offers panoramic vistas and is now a popular tourist attraction, known for its lighthouse, restaurant, and live-music events, particularly on Sundays.

Another area with its own pages in the history book is Treasure Beach. Its residents descend from just a handful of St Elizabeth families, many of whom trace their origins to Scottish fishermen who were shipwrecked on the coast in the mid-1600s.

The parish of St Elizabeth, despite getting the least amount of rainfall in Jamaica, supplies more fruits and vegetables to the rest of the island than any other parish in the country.

According to Jason Henzell, owner of the Treasure Beach Hotel , the town has retained its character since the days when his great-grandfather fell in love with the area after receiving a telegram from his uncle, who had already moved there. It read: “Sell everything. Bring Number 9 hardy fishing rod and polo sticks. And come.” He did just that and has never looked back.

Berl Francis is a communication consultant and former director of communication at the Ministry of Tourism. Send feedback to columns@gleanerjm.com.